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KNOWLEDGE HUB

June 2026
 

Shutter Speed: The Camera Setting that Controls

Sensor Exposure Time

Think of shutter speed as how long the camera’s “eyelid” stays open when you take a photo. The shutter opens, light reaches the sensor, and then it closes again. Shutter speed is measured in seconds or fractions of a second, such as 1/1000, 1/250, 1/60, 1 second or longer. In general, a faster shutter speed lets in light during a short amount of time, while a slower shutter speed lets in light over a longer period. To summarise:
  • Fast shutter speed (e.g., 1/1000) = the shutter is open for a shorter time = less light and less motion blur
  • Slow shutter speed (e.g., 1/30 or 1 second) = the shutter is open for a longer time = more light and more motion blur
Shutter speed doesn’t just affect how much movement is captured, longer shutter speeds also let in more light, which might be useful when the environment is darker. 
Motion rendering describes how movement looks in a photo. In general:
  • Fast shutter speeds freeze motion, so moving subjects such as runners, pets or cyclists appear sharp and crisp
  • Slow shutter speeds allow movement to blur, which can create a sense of speed, energy or softness in things like traffic, waterfalls or people walking
The images below show a fan using different shutter speeds which clearly demonstrate how shutter speeds impact the image.
So how do photographers use this in real life?
  • Sports and wildlife: Photographers often choose a fast shutter speed (for example 1/500, 1/1000 or even 1/4000) to freeze quick movement and keep the subject sharp
  • Waterfalls, light trails and night scenes: Photographers often use a slow shutter speed (for example 1/15, 1 second or longer) to blur movement and create a more dramatic or artistic effect
  • Everyday handheld photos: A moderate shutter speed such as 1/125 or 1/250 is often a safe starting point for keeping ordinary subjects sharp while shooting without a tripod
Quick tip: If you make your shutter speed faster and the image becomes too dark, compensate by opening the aperture or raising ISO. If you use a slower shutter speed, be careful of camera shake—using a tripod can help keep the parts of the image that should be sharp looking clear.

June 2026
 

Aperture: the camera setting that controls
light and background blur

Think of aperture as the camera’s “pupil”: an opening inside the lens that widens or narrows to control how much light reaches the sensor. Aperture size is described using f-numbers (like f/1.8, f/5.6, f/16). Here’s the part that often feels backwards at first:
  • Small f-number (e.g., f/1.8) = a bigger opening = more light
  • Large f-number (e.g., f/16) = a smaller opening = less light
The diagram below shows how the opening changes as the f-number changes.
Picture2_edited.png
Aperture doesn’t just affect brightness—it also changes how much of your photo looks sharp. This is called depth of field:
Depth of field describes the range in front of and behind your focus point that appears acceptably sharp. In general:
  • Wide aperture (small f-number) creates a shallow depth of field, so only a thin slice of the scene is sharp and the background/foreground blur more.
  • Narrow aperture (large f-number) creates a deep depth of field, so more of the scene stays sharp from front to back.
The photos below illustrate the difference in depth of field at different aperture settings. (Other factors—like how close you are to your subject and your lens focal length—also affect depth of field, but aperture is the easiest place to start.)

June 2026
 

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